Log — The New Alpinism Training
Most climbers use a training log like a diary: they write down what they did, feel a sense of accomplishment, and close the book. That is a You need a teacher log.
His climbing partners noticed. “You’re weirdly calm,” said Meg, after a long glacier traverse. “Last year you would have been yelling.”
There is no single answer, but the TNA purists (House and Johnston included) lean toward analog for the very reason we climb: to disconnect from screens.
is a game-changing tool for any serious climber. By providing a structured framework for training and tracking progress, this innovative logbook helps you optimize your performance, achieve your goals, and reach new heights. the new alpinism training log
He sat on a rock and pulled out the gray logbook. He’d filled 187 pages. The last entry was from yesterday:
Sample log entry: "ME – Box step-ups (18") – 40lb vest (25% BW) – 4 sets x 50 reps. Rest 90 sec. Failure: Leg cramp at rep 48 in set 4."
| Date | AM Score | RHR | Sleep | Session Type | Duration (min) | Avg HR | Pack (lbs) | ME Load | RPE (1-10) | Notes | |------|----------|-----|-------|--------------|----------------|--------|------------|---------|------------|-------| Most climbers use a training log like a
Session Plan: [e.g., 90 min Zone 1 uphill w/ 30lbs] Actual: _________________________________ Zone 1 Time: ____ min | Zone 2 Time: ____ min | Strength: ____ min ME Session: [Exercise] [Load] [Reps/Rest] CNS Fatigue (1-10): __ Hydration (1-10): __ Notes: _________________________________
Rest day. Measured resting heart rate: 48. Two years ago it was 65. Didn’t think I could change that.
: Includes dedicated pages to plot long-term programs based on personal aspirations and break them down into monthly, weekly, and daily records. “You’re weirdly calm,” said Meg, after a long
The goal is to build a massive aerobic engine. Most of your time should be spent in Zone 1 and Zone 2 (conversational pace). Aerobic Capacity:
“I’m just… counting,” Leo said. He was. In his head: Steps per minute. Breathing cycles. Heartbeats. The log had taught him that the mountain wasn’t the opponent. His own dysregulated nervous system was.
The log became a quiet ritual. Mornings, he’d sit with black coffee and a pencil, reviewing yesterday’s numbers. The boxes for “Perceived Effort” and “Objective Load” forced a kind of honesty he’d never practiced. He realized he’d been lying to himself for a decade—confusing panic with intensity, fear with focus.